Japan

[Drunk Monk]

We started today with our first bus ride, which turned out to be easy. We had planned to take a boat but the waters were too high from the storms last night so only the white water boats were running and that wasn’t on our dance card (if it wasn’t safe for regular boats, why would it be safe for white watering?) we made it to Arashiyama, which is famous for its bamboo forest. The temple garden is another UNESCO World Heritage site and the main hall has the most magnificent dragon murals. We took the less travelled paths in the garden, up the hillside, and found some solace and peace there. Then we went to the bamboos grove which is notorious for being packed with tourists. But tourists don’t come this time of year because it’s in the 90s with humidity about the same. So it was very pleasant, except for an Italian couple who was having an argument right smack in the middle of the path. Fortunately a koto busker drowned them out.  

We passed a huge lotus pond with some in bloom. I thought we were too late in the season because most of what we’ve seen has just been bare stems. We found an off the beaten path bamboo shop and I bought myself a bamboo shot glass, or shot stalk rather.

From there we headed for a nearby jizo temple we both heard about on IG that was less travelled and had a better bamboo forest. But we were misled because it was really just a big graveyard and a small grove. It did have a beautiful bell which was tolled while we were there - such sustenance that lingered for several minutes. 

We decided to climb the mountain in the absurd heat (soaked thru my clothes with sweat again) to a second jizo temple which was magnificent. Hilly, but thousands of delightful jizo statues, each one totally unique ranging from pious to joyful to silly to stern to haunting. We spent a while there admiring them all and pointing out favorites to each other. there was also a trio of bells we we permitted to ring and together they made a soulful tone.

We caught the bus back down the mountain to thr tourist zone where we had lunch (soba and udon) and some fresh taiyaki, which was too hot to eat at first. We checked out some gift shops, a Miffy shop/bakery (search Miffy bunny if you don’t know), the kimono forest, and other tourist delights.

On the way back to the train we saw an ad for a sword display at a temple between us and our guesthouse, so we headed there. It was a circuitous trail down alleys and weird greenways to get there. The temple was lovely, adorned with lanterns and we saw a bit of a ritual by the monks. We found the sword exhibit - it was the last day of it. Magnificent. The most gorgeous swords I’ve seen - royal presentation pieces - National treasures. I was gobsmacked. 

Form there we went back to the guesthouse to recoup. A big thunderstorm hit, which we dodged completely. When it was done, we headed back near our first Kyoto hotel to have dinner at the soy milk ramen place again. So delicious. Tara got some vegan gf strawberry cake in a can from the vending machine outside and it was oishii - the whipped cream was so creamy and the frozen strawberries were just right on a warm night.

Tara wanted to see a district we missed, renown for its traditional architecture and a famous pagoda. Most of it was closed but it was peaceful with only a few other tourists about and workers closing up shops. We got to the pagoda and Tara cracked her can of cake and we watched the moon rise of the pagoda, which was magical.

Then on the way back to the bus, we stumbled on to another Tozando shop that was still open, so we popped in and I oggled more swords. 

There was a temple near the bus stop so we went in there too and it was a different experience than the dozen or so temples we’ve seen with the lanterns lit. More moon lit magic.

After we got off the bus, we made a quick stop at 7-11 for vitamin & fruity drinks. Then we got back for a quick packing to prepare to head to Osaka.

8.9 miles 17 flights of stairs.